Now maybe for a more detailed description. We were happy to arrive in Port Leucate: at last, the sea! It was a very quiet sea town so the beaches were as good as empty this time of year. The weather was great so we went for a quick swim in the morning. Then we decided to cross the country to the other side. We stopped in Carcassone, where we stayed maybe for half an hour. Too many tourists, too little authenticity, it wasn’t really our thing. Lourdes was on the way, so we wanted to see what that was all about. The way from Carcassone to Lourdes was very nice: with the Pyrenees constantly in view in the background, we drove on little roads with The Sound of Music-meadows on either side, up down left right, until we arrived at the city of Lourdes. Although there were many tourists here as well, at least there was something beautiful to see: the basilica was amazing! The grandeur of the whole thing and the mosaic paintings… incredible. We also washed our hands with holy water, visited the grotto and received a gift from an Italian bartender who had worked in Belgium: a little medallion of Mary and a prayer. He also wished us a good pilgrimage…


Strenghtened by all these blessings we drove on to Biarritz – surfer’s paradise and home of the hip, the trendy and the fashionable… we felt slightly out of place at first.

However, our discomfort soon evaporated when we noticed the unusually high concentration of hot men. Seriously, I have never seen so many gorgeous men in one place before. Young or old, short or tall, bearded or non-bearded, surfers, bar tenders and delivery boys alike, they were all tanned, muscled, had a body to die for and had nice faces. It was a real feast on the eye and we spent most of our time in Biarritz just sitting on the beach watching the surfers getting in and out of the water… I’m ashamed to admit it but that’s what you get when two single women visit a place like that.

On our second day in Biarritz we decided drive over to Spain. Big disappointment. The moment we crossed the border there was total chaos on the roads. Lots of traffic, road works and bad signalisation. I wanted to turn back there and then but my companion wanted to drive on to the city we had planned to see: San Sebastian. It was even worse there – we kept driving around in circles, didn’t find a place to park the car and kept getting closer to the city when we actually wanted to get out of it. We had to eat our picnic in the car while standing in a traffic jam… I did buy a cheap little tent of my own there, so that was one good thing that day. That, and the fact that we went back to the beach in Biarritz in the evening after we had dinner. We wanted to catch a last glimpse of our surfers who kept at it until sunset.

Our hormones were going crazy by now so it was probably a good thing that it started to rain that night. It stormed all night and continued to rain all morning so we decided it would be better to pack up and leave, and look for more sun…
We drove on to the North and decided to visit “that little island over there,” which turned out to be Ile de Ré. As we drove over the bridge we had to trade our hip surfers for nature-loving fishermen and farmers – quite a culture shock. Oh well, at least they could provide us with delicious food from the sea. Apparently all the people on the camping took off in the morning with their buckets to search for oysters and clams on the shores. That looked like fun, so we did the same thing. After we spent an entire morning looking for clams (and became totally zen in the process), we still didn’t have enough to make a decent dinner so we also bought some other sea things at the local market. Then we started a fire for the BBQ, prepared Jamie Oliver’s seafood vinaigrette, roasted some bread, cooked our clams and ate our meal. Delicious! We were so stuffed we needed a siesta afterwards, so I finally started in The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society, which was ideal for this kind of lazing around. Kiran Desai’s The Inheritance of Loss, which I was reading before we left, proved to be too much of a strain to read when on holiday.

The next morning we did some souvenir shopping and off we went again. Destination: Saint Malo. The next stop was Cherbourg. On our way there we passed the famous Mont Saint Michel and noticed they were doing some kind of WWII re-enactment and were dropping paratroopers from a plane… amazing thing to see!


The only thing we did in Cherbourg was have dinner (I had the most delicious piece of meat I’ve ever eaten…) We arrived rather late and had to leave rather early because it was our last day and there were still so many things we wanted to see… Cap de la Hague, Honfleur, Etretat, the landing beaches, … And we also wanted to make a quick stop near Veurne to visit the village of Willem Vermandere (a Belgian singer) who had accompanied us musically on the entire trip. Nothing came of that though, Cap de la Hague was so beautiful and the weather was so nice in Honfleur that we didn’t get there in time… Maybe next time.